Way back in the 16th century, it was discovered that using comfrey root could help soothe skin irritations. and help heal skin ulcers and wounds. At that time, they didn’t know it but it was actually Allantoin, found in comfrey root, that was doing all this great work. Comfrey root, sugar beets, wheat and other botanticals containing Allantoin continued to be used on wounds, scars and ulcers. Finally in 1912, a physician chemically identified this wonder substance as Allantoin. Since then, it has been used widely in creams and lotions.

Allantoin helps to soothe, soften and heal skin. It is used often in products for sensitive skin or acne-prone skin as it is anti-irritating, meaning it will actually reduce irritation that may be caused by other ingredients. It is most commonly used to:

• help prevent and treat dry, chapped, cracking skin or lips
• relieve dryness and soften cold sores and fever blisters
• temporarily protect minor cuts, scrapes and burns
• treat and prevent diaper rash

When you read a list of ingredients on a product, it’s so easy to breeze over the names. Often you are looking for the “bad” ones, so you don’t pay as much attention to understanding the “good” ones. Especially if it’s a short word you can easily pronounce! So next time you come across Allantoin (it will likely be near the bottom as a little goes a long way) you’ll know that it’s definitely a “good” one.  And in case you’re wondering, Allantoin is found in all of Garden Girl’s face creams, body butters and body lotions, and  hand and foot creams!

Here’s my theory – if we have to deal with wrinkles, shouldn’t we be done with pimples? I mean really – isn’t one of those enough? Sadly, however, breakouts are a fact of life at ALL ages.  Like it or not. But we don’t have to sit back and take it, right? Here are the Garden Girl natural skin care tips for keeping skin clear – without using harsh chemicals or expensive “seen on TV”, celebrity-endorsed systems.

The best defense is a good offense. Heard that before? Well it actually applies here pretty nicely – a good daily skincare regimen will do wonders for keeping you clear from breakouts.  Our recommended system includes 3 daily steps plus another you do 1x to 3x per week. We recommend washing morning and evening, but if you can only do it once a day, then definitely pick evening. Why? Because you don’t want to go to bed and leave icky junk on your face for those extra hours. In the morning you can just skip straight to the toner step! (And as always – look for natural skin care products that are paraben-free, sulfate-free, petroleum-free and phthalate-free for best results)

1. Wash using a sulfate-free, paraben-free face wash with either Tea Tree Oil or Glycolic Acid.  This will clear out pores and remove irritating oil, grease and other environmental elements your skin is exposed to each day. Garden Girl picks: You’re Fresh with Tea Tree Oil for normal/combination skin and At Long Last with glycolic acid for oily/acne prone skin.
2. Tone with a revitalizing and cleansing toner that will leave your skin fresh and primed for your moisturizer. For oily skin, you’ll want to look for a toner that acts like an astringent as well – such as one with amazing witch hazel. Toner is an often overlooked step that is vital for keeping skin clear. It not only removes the last traces of makeup but it also clears out pores which helps them to close back up and shrink back down. Clear pores obviously means less of a chance for breakouts. And the toner prepares your skin by balancing its pH so that it will maximize the effects of the moisturizer. After you cleanse your skin, the pH naturally gets altered so if you cleanse and then immediately moisturize your skin won’t take that moisture in as effectively.  Garden Girl pick for normal/oily skin: Even Ste(pH)en with witch hazel, skin-clearing herbal extracts, and skin-firming DMAE.
   • As a side note, toner can make a great “pick me up” on hot summer days. A quick spritz can cool off your face without ruining your make-up. As a matter of fact, it even works great to set mineral make-up. For added “ahhhh” store one in the fridge.
3. Moisturize using a face cream that yes, even has some oils in it. I know, if you have oily skin the word “moisturizer” can make you a little, um, anxious. So you tend to avoid it like the plague, right? Well, fear not, because here’s the thing: if you don’t moisturize your skin properly your skin will actually start to think that it isn’t producing enough oil. Uh oh. Because that means that it will start to overproduce oils. And that is where you can get additional breakouts. So yes – embrace your moisturizer – just find one that doesn’t irritate your skin.
   • Look for one with a high concentration of hyaluronic acid which is a humectant which means it draws moisture in and traps it in the skin. It works best in combination with other emolients so provides balanced moisture and hydration. Another great ingredient to look for is Zinc PCA which can naturally help to keep skin clear.
   • Alternatively, a moisturizer with Alpha Hydroxy Acids can help to get rid of dead skin cells which in turn keeps pores unclogged and skin smooth. And I know this may seem obvious, but choose one for faces. Don’t use a body moisturizer on your face, please.
   • Garden Girl face cream picks: No Worries (for sensitive skin, with Zinc PCA) or Nature Nurture (for normal/oily/combination skin, with AHAs).
4. Exfoliate one to three times each week. If you have sensitive skin, stick to once per week, but if it is normal to oily and not sensitive, then you should be able to handle 2-3 times per week. Exfoliating is a very key step. This is where you can really see a difference. Not only will your skin look smoother, with fewer lines and wrinkles, faded/fewer age spots and acne scars (yea!) but it will keep your pores clearer and your skin less hospitable to pimples and breakouts. Nice, huh? It’s really an amazing tool – but it has to be used correctly.
   • First and foremost – exfoliating exposes “newer” skin so your skin is highly susceptible to sun damage after any exfoliation. Be very diligent about using sunscreen that day and the next day (well really, you should be wearing it every day anyway…). The other is that it can irritate skin if it is overdone or done too harshly.There are 2 types of exfoliators – chemical (by that we mean anything from harsh chemicals to natural “chemicals” like fruit acid) and physical (anything with scrubbing pieces in it – microderm crystals, crushed dried fruit pits or beans, plastic beads  etc.). Clearly Garden Girl recommends natural choices. But they should also be safe for your skin. Crushed fruit pits (think apricot scrubs etc) or similar things can be very rough on skin causing micro-tears that can damage skin. And plastic beads? Just plain bad – especially for the environment as those things go right down your drain and into the water system. Blech.
   • Both physical and chemical systems basically do the same thing – they remove the dead skin cells and smooth skin. But a physical exfoliant is something that you scrub on your face (in a gentle, circular motion), while a chemical product is something that you put on your skin and leave on, as it does the work for you. Both are great choices – it’s just up to you how you’d prefer to do it. And if you are really struggling with breakouts, the chemical peels can be a better option as depending on the product, it can be a bit stronger and more effective.
   • For example, Garden Girl’s Break Free gel and G for Men’s smooth, are both 7.5% fruit acid (glycolic, lactic,  and pyruvic acids) and it is “unbuffered” which means it is faster acting and more effective  than most fruit acid peels you will find for home use – yet it is still safe for non-professional use. Typically you will find “buffered” peels which are somewhat less effective.If you’re interested in the physical exfoliator, then opt for Garden Girl’s Starting Over microderm scrub – which has a creamy base and natural micro crystals (the same ones used by dermatologists for their microdermabrasion treatments).
5. Fight a pimple naturally. Sometimes you just can’t avoid it, no matter how well you stick to a good skin care system, once in awhile a little “spot” pops up. Don’t panic! Here’s what we recommend – and it really works! Tea Tree Oil. But be careful when you use it – it shouldn’t be used at full strength on your skin. What we suggest is to dip a Qtip into the bottle of Tea Tree Oil and dampen the tip with the oil. Then run that Qtip under a trickle of water just enough to dilute it a bit. You’ll be amazed at how strong it still is! Then dab the Qtip on your pimple. Do this after you have washed and toned but before the moisturizer. Do it morning and evening. Usually after the first 1 or 2 treatments the pimple will start to disappear. You can find Tea Tree Oil online or at Trader Joe’s (it’s the cheapest there) if you have one near you. Tea Tree Oil is a great thing to have on hand. I have written about it in the past in a post on this blog.

So that’s it. This system will work incredibly well for most people – even those that have done the whole dermatologist thing. Save yourself some trips to the doctor’s office and try this instead. You just might be amazed at the results!

Understanding your skin type is very important for keeping your skin healthy – and therefore reducing the impact of your skin’s aging process. There are 3 types of skin: normal, oily and dry. And each skin type has a range within it – for example very oily or very dry. Additionally, you can have a combination of the skin types – like normal on your cheeks but oily on your “t-zone”.

Below is a brief description of the 3 skin types and how to take care of them. Much of the “technical” information I have here is from textbooks.

Normal Skin
Normal skin is what we all hope to have but few actually do have. The best way to describe “normal” skin is that it is what most children have (before they hit puberty). In normal skin, hydration is perfect and the oil glands secrete just enough oil to keep skin soft and supple. It looks healthy, with good color, a smooth texture and it’s free of large pores and wrinkles.

Lots of things can deteriorate the quality of normal skin – with the biggest being the natural aging process. Additionally, lack of proper hydration and the lack of a healthy diet with vitamins, minerals, and amino acids to provide proper cell reproduction also play a big role. Lastly, how you take care of your skin plays a role – use of harsh soaps and scrubs, the climate you live in and sun exposure through lack of proper use of sun protection.

The best way to take care of normal skin is to wash twice daily – morning and (most importantly) evening. Washing should be followed by use of a toner and a moisturizer – along with any additional anti-aging products you are using (serums, eye creams etc.). Normal skin will also benefit from weekly exfoliation. Lastly, and always most importantly, proper use of sun protection is vital.

Dry Skin
Dry skin is a common occurrence among people who are over 40, as our skin naturally slows its production of oils which cause it to look dried out and dehydrated. Additionally, many people simply have dry skin that they have had all of their lives. Dry skin is the result of sebaceous glands that are underactive – so they are not producing sufficient oils to keep skin moist and dewey. Because of the lack of oil, it is less able to maintain proper levels of hydration because the oils typically act as a barrier to prevent loss of moisture. Without the oils, the moisture is free to leave the skin layers and then the skin begins to appear dry and dehydrated.

Dry skin tends to look thin, very delicate and often flaky. Pores tend to be almost invisible and the skin shows wrinkles and lines very easily. Obviously exposure to the sun will exacerbate the situation. Dry skin should be taken care of carefully, using non-drying face cleansers as well as moisturizers that provide a sufficient barrier to trap moisture such as hyaluronic acid. Careful use of additional anti-aging products is also recommended (eye creams, serums etc.) Periodic (gentle!) exfoliation is helpful to rid skin of the flaking and peeling, but most importantly the weekly use of a hydrating masque is crucial. It is key for people with dry skin to use products specifically formulated for dry skin.

Oily Skin

Oily skin is obviously the opposite of dry skin. Oily skin results from sebaceous glands that are over-active. It is easily recognized as it has a shiny, thick and firm appearance – and it tends to have large pores. People with oily skin often suffer from blemishes, typically on the forehead, chin and nose areas. The good news is that people that suffer from oily skin when they are young, tend to have fewer wrinkles and younger looking skin as they age. This is due to the fact that the sebaceous glands slow their production as we age, so people with oily skin typically end up with more “normal” oil production resulting in younger looking skin!

Oily skin is one of the most challenging to take care of properly. Common myths are that you want to dry skin out and that you should not use any products with oils in them so it won’t get even more oily. However, these tactics can get you into some worse trouble! If you have oily skin, you should thoroughly but gently (not harshly) cleanse your skin morning and evening with products designed specifically for oily or problematic skin. Toners again can help maintain proper skin balance and maximize the effects of the moisturizer. And yes – you definitely want to use a moisturizer, as well as anti-aging serums and eye creams. Any moisturizing product should be one that helps to regulate oil gland secretion. And most importantly, a bi-weekly use of an exfoliator is key – to keep skin soft and smooth and reduce the appearance of thickening skin.

It’s interesting because I hear from many clients that they sometimes have oily skin and sometimes dry skin. But more likely what is happening is that they have oily skin and are using products or doing something that is dehydrating their skin. It’s important to remember that your skin has layers that hold a lot of water and layers with oil. So it is important to keep it hydrated as well as maintain the proper levels of oil. So if you have oily skin that gets dry in spots it’s likely that you have used astringents, scrubs or soaps either excessively or you have chosen ones that are simply too harsh. Again, seek out products with hyaluronic acid as it can help to trap the moisture in the skin.

EWG.org has posted this year’s review of sunscreens. There are quite a few interesting ones and the report is filled with interesting information. Turns out, they discovered in their research of more than 1,600 sunscreens that “3 of 5 brand-name sunscreens either don’t protect skin from sun damage or contain hazardous chemicals — or both.” Yipes!

Now I have to say, from their “top 10″ list, many of them are either incredibly expensive, very hard to find (often out of stock) or they are icky to use (the Badger brand is very very greasy/sticky). But that said – to each his own. If you are a stickler for a sunscreen that has a “0″ hazard rating, then check them out. But many of the others are just fine to use – and you can read all about them.

But best of all is this year, EWG created what I think is very smart, handy and practical – a handy guide that you can bring with you when you go to buy sunscreen. This way, you have a quick cheat sheet of the brands that you’ll find at CVS or Target or wherever – and which are the best choices within a brand (as some brands like Coppertone and Neutrogena have some of least safe/effective products but also have a couple of good ones). Plus it has a list of the ingredients to avoid!

Unfortunately, it doesn’t look as though they reviewed any of the Trader Joe’s products. I will say, however, that a personal review of the ingredients of their Face and Body SPF30 looked pretty good. Paraben-free, oxybenzone-free and it includes a mineral block. That said, I have no idea what the actual EWG safety rating would be.

So take a look at the EWG review site and print off the cheat sheet. And have a safe, and hopefully SUNNY summer.

(Northeast weather update – we are actually supposed to see the sun for multiple days in a ROW! Amazing!)

A study reported in the September 2008 British Journal of Nutrition revealed that 1/2 teaspoon of flaxseed oil every day can help to soothe skin and reduce redness. The study involved 45 women who were given flaxseed oil, borage oil or a placebo – and those that took the flaxseed oil supplements every day saw a 45% reduction in redness and 25% less water loss. The result? Softer, smoother skin.

So if you suffer from rosacea or other skin redness this may be something to check out! Of course, you’ll want to check with your physician – but if they give the green light, what do you have to lose?

Are you struggling with dry lips these days? It’s such a brutal time of year (at least in the colder climates) for your smackers and nobody likes to have flaky, dry, cracked lips. So here’s a quick, easy and NATURAL way to get back to smooth kissable lips.

In a small bowl, put 1 tablespoon of sugar (regular white granulated or natural/demura sugar). Add 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil (best) or any other cooking oil you have around (canola, corn etc). Mix together until it is like wet sand.

Then, simply put some on your lips and scrub gently with your finger. Wipe off (or if you have a sweet tooth, you can lick it off!). Afterwards, apply your favorite lip balm.

Leftovers? Use it on your hands – scrub hand over the sink with the scrub and briefly rinse (just to get the sugar off). Then apply Hand it to You hand cream (ok – you can actually use any hand cream, but I’m biased…)

You’ll be amazed at how well that works and how soft and smooth your hands and lips will be. Sweet!

Shea butter is another quiet hero of skin care. Shea is an amazing ingredient that has been used for hundreds of years. It comes from the fruit/nut from shea trees in West Africa. The nut is then crushed and boiled and the fat is extracted. It is similar to cocoa butter, and is actually edible as well! The butter is a deep ivory or sometimes even yellowish color.

Sometimes referred to in West Africa as “women’s gold,” shea butter production has become a growing entrepreneurial business opportunity for women in West Africa. With the help of charitable organizations, women’s associations have been developing ways to produce quality shea butter for distribution internationally. While shea seeds have been exported to Europe since the late 19th century for processing and packaging, women have only received a small fraction of the full value of their crop. So the charitable organizations have stepped in to help develop the skills and empower women to work together, raise their profile and earn fair trade.

One such group that is helping this process is “Women’s Gold: The Dagara Shea Butter Project“, based in Lexington, MA. According to The Dagara Project, “In a culture where ‘men’s work’ and ‘women’s work’ are clearly defined, the women’s traditional work of gathering and processing shea seeds now offers and exciting opportunity for women to be empowered, enabling them to provide for the needs of their children and families.”

Shea butter is in high demand, and for good reason. Shea is known to deeply moisturize, repair and heal skin. It is able to treat sunburns, wrinkles, tough or cracked skin on elbows and feet, itching skin, and rashes. Many people with eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis and rheumatism have seen positive results after using shea butter. Unrefined shea butter is packed with nutrients and vitamins. It can correct and heal damaged skin on a cellular level – helping to repair free radical damage and other skin conditions.

So look for shea butter as an ingredient in your skin care products (it’s in nearly all of Garden Girl’s products!) It’s there for good reason!

Aloe Vera is one of those sometimes overlooked ingredients that should really be the shining star! It has been used literally almost forever for its many incredible qualities. It is even mentioned in the Bible in John 19. Now that’s ancient!

Topical uses range from herbal medicinal uses (like healing scars and burns, and soothing sunburns) to general skin care. The source is the aloe plant leaves which are filled with a gel. Aloe largely consists of water but the key components include minerals, polysaccarides, and amino acids. Plus it has vitamins E, C & B.

It’s great to keep an aloe plant around the house for emergencies. They are very hardy (read – people like me who seem to kill all houseplants somehow, can even keep an Aloe plant thriving). And if you get a burn – you have the source right there for immediate relief. I say this from experience. A couple years ago I burned my wrist when a sugar-sauce splattered on it. It was a bad burn (OK I’ll admit it – I felt woozy and nauseous) but the first thing I did was rip open a hunk of aloe leaf and put it on my burn. It was amazing – cooling and soothing. (Then I called my sister the doctor for more advice!)

But I digress. The reason I’m posting about aloe is that I think it’s a good reminder to understand why this ingredient is found in so many skin care products. It is in all creams and lotions from Garden Girl and for great reason. It is an incredible skin hydrator, healer and softener with anti-inflamitory properties. It helps to keep the skin soft and supple by bringing oxygen to the cells which helps to strengthen the skin tissue. It is great for all skin types – and is so mild that even those with the most sensitive skin will benefit from its properties.

So the next time you see Aloe Vera on a label, don’t be quick to dismiss it. It’s there for a great reason. It is a hard-working superstar!

I come across a list like this all the time when I am doing any industry research. I thought it might be interesting to share.

This show who own’s which companies in the beauty industry. It makes you think about some of these “natural” companies that are controlled by some of the worst offenders of toxin use in skin care.

Clorox Burt’s Bees

Estee Lauder Stila, Aramis, Aveda, Clinique, Jane, Tommy Hilfiger Fragrances, Bobbi Brown, Presecriptives, MAC, Origins, Donna Karan cosmetics, Jo Malone Perfumes, Bumble + Bumble, Kate Spade Beauty, Crème de la Mer.

L’Oreal The Body Shoppe, Maybelline, Lancome, Helena Rubinstein, Kiehl’s, BioMedic, Cichy, Biotherm, Giorgio Armani Parfums, Ralph Lauren Pafums, Shu Uemura, Ombrelle, Redken, Matrix, Farnier, and La Roche Posay

Procter & Gamble Cover Girl, Max Factor, Clairol, Olay, Noxzema, Pantene, Vidal Sassoon

Johnson & Johnson Neutrogena, Aveeno, Clean & Clear, PersaGel, RoC, Retin-A and Renova

Revlon Almay, Ultima II

Sheishedo Cle de Peau, Decleor, NARS and Sea Breeze

Beiersdorf La Prairie, Nivea, Basis, Eucerin and Juvena of Switzerland

Do you know of any others to add to the list? Let me know!